Introduction
An Intimate Tolerance – Palamartsa, Bulgaria
Part One: Bosnia and Herzegovina
An Ottoman City – Sarajevo
The Bridge Built by Barbarians – Mostar
Mystics and Mountains – Blagaj
The Bloody Bridge on the Drina – Višegrad
Part Two: Serbia and Kosovo
Serbia's Dirty Little Secret – Rudine and Sjenica
‘A Muslim Town' – Novi Pazar
Pokémon in Hammams – Novi Pazar
The Grandfather of Muslim Europe – Pristina, Kosovo
An Orthodox Town – Niš
Part Three: North Macedonia
Whose Heritage Is It, Anyway? – Skopje
A Macedonian Imam – Skopje
The Fool's Tekke – Tetovo
Part Four: Albania
Taken by Albanians – Vlore
A Beer with a Muslim – Llogara National Park
The Town ‘Addicted to Prayer' – Gjirokaster
The House the Pasha Built – Gjirokaster
A Fairy-Tale Ottoman Village – Berat
Capitals Old and New – Durres, Tirana and Kruje
Part Five: Montenegro
Muslim Montenegro – Podgorica
Part Six: Return to Bosnia and Herzegovina
The Effendi's Library – Foca and Zenica
Coffee with Bosnian Kings – Vranduk and Travnik
Dumped for De Niro – Sarajevo
Back in ‘Jerusalem' – Sarajevo
Remembrance in Sarajevo – Sarajevo
Glossary
Acknowledgements