Rowman & Littlefield Publishers
Pages: 336
Trim: 7¼ x 10¼
978-0-7591-2148-5 • Hardback • October 2014 • $108.00 • (£83.00)
978-0-7591-2150-8 • eBook • October 2014 • $102.50 • (£79.00)
Annette Lynch is a professor in the Textile and Apparel Program at the University of Northern Iowa. Her research focuses on the role of dress and appearance in negotiating gender role transformation and cultural change, particularly within the United States. Her book Dress, Gender and Cultural Change examined the role of dress worn within rites of passage in modifying and reinventing tradition and gender ideals for Hmong and African American teenagers and young adults. She has also written extensively on the mainstreaming of porn culture into fashion and identity constructions in the new millennium.
Mitchell D. Strauss is professor of textiles and apparel at the University of Northern Iowa. He has been involved in education and consulting with the textile industry for more than thirty years. He has also served as the dean of the Institute of Textile Technology, department head of Design, Textiles and Interior Design at Kansas State University, and director of textile research at Air Products & Chemicals. His most recent scholarship has included field research exploring the meaning of dress among Confederate Civil War re-enactors, as well as coauthoring with Dr. Lynch Changing Fashion: A Critical Introduction to Trend Analysis and Meaning.
Foreword
Introduction
African Head Wrap
Aloha Shirt (Hawai‘ian Shirt)
Alpaca Sweater
Anorak/Parka
Apron
Aran Sweater
Bandana
Barong Tagalog
Batik Cloth Apparel
Battenberg Lace
Beret
Bermuda Shorts
Bikini
Birkenstocks
Blangkon
Blundstone Boots
Bohemian Dress
Bolero Jacket
Bolo Tie
Bootlace Tie (UK Teddy Boys)
Boubou
Bowler Hat
Bricolage
British Riding Boots
Broomstick Skirt
Buckskin
Burnous
Busserull (Norwegian Work Shirt)
Caftan
Calico and Chintz
Capri Pants
Chador
Chambray
Chemise
Cheongsam
Chima Chinese Flats
Chinese Silk Pajamas
Choli
Cholo Style
Ch’ullu (Quechua) or Chullo (Hispanicized)
Church Hat
Cloche Hat
Clogs
Concho Belt
Conical Asian Hat
Coonskin Cap
Corset
Dashiki
Dirndl
Djellaba
Dolman
Do-Rag
Dr. Martens
Duster
Espadrilles
Ethnic Jewelry
Faja
Fedora
Fez
Flat Cap
Flip-Flops (Geta)
Fustanella
Gele
Gypsy Skirt
Hanbok
Hanfu Chinese Robes
Haori
Happi
Hardanger
Harem Pant (Salwar)
Harris Tweed
Hawli
Hijab
Hip-Hop Fashion
Huaraches
Huipil
Inverness Coat
Japanese Street Fashion
Jellies
Jeogori
Jilbab
Jodhpurs
Kanga
Kebaya and Skirt
Keffiyeh
Kente Cloth
Kilt
Kimono
Kosovorotka
Kufi
Lederhosen
Leotard
Madras Cloth
Mao Suit
Mariachi Suit
Melhfa
Mexican Pointy Boots
Mexican Tourist/Souvenir Jacket
Missoni Knits
Moccasins
Mousquetaire
Mu‘umu‘u (Muumuu)
Nehru Jacket
Norigae
Norwegian Knitted Mittens and Gloves
Norwegian Sweater
Obi
Oxford Shirt
Paj Ntaub (Hmong Flower Cloth)
Panama Hat
Pashmina Shawl and Scarf
Peasant Blouse
Pelisse
Pinafore
Pollera
Polo Shirt
Poncho
Porcupine Roach
Powwow Accessories
Powwow T-Shirts
Rasta Hat
Rubaha
Rumba Dress
Sarafan
Sari
Sarong
Scottish Sweater
Serape
Shawl
Shearling
Shtreimel
Sibenik Cap
Sirwal
Slouch Hat (Australian)
Snood
Sombrero
Tabi
Tallit
Tam-o’-Shanter
Taqiya
Thawb
Tie-Dyed Apparel
Toque (Tuque)
Trench Coat
Turban
Tzitzit
Ugg Footwear
Waistcoat
Western Wear
Wingtips (Brogue Shoe)
Yarmulke (Kippah)
Zoot Suit
Index
About the Editors and Contributors
One way that multicultural diversity in the United States can be seen is by observing past and present ethnic influences on contemporary fashion. Like much of the US population, anorak parkas, Ugg boots, pashmina shawls, and dashikis—to name just a few of the topics covered in this concise volume—all came from somewhere else. More than 150 diverse and unique clothing items, including headwear, shoes, jewelry, and accessories, are described in short signed essays by contributors with academic credentials or professional interests in fashion and costume. Each signed entry provides a brief history of the artifact's origins, how it has been interpreted in the US, and the influences or impact it may have had on popular dress and culture. The entries provide ample see also and compare to cross-references, along with short lists of further readings. Selected entries are accompanied by small but detailed black-and-white ink drawings. The inclination of some contributors to provide examples of ethnic dress worn by particular film and music celebrities tends to date some of the entries. Based on the content and writing, this resource seems most appropriate for public libraries and secondary-school reference collections. Summing Up: Recommended. General readers.
— Choice Reviews
The information is highly engaging and challenges the beliefs Americans may hold about their own culture. . . .Ethnic Dress in the USA is written for a general audience making it appropriate for public libraries, secondary schools and community college libraries, as well as colleges and universities with programmes in textiles, culture and history.
— Reference Reviews
Ethnic Dress in the United States is the go-to resource for anyone who has ever wondered where a particular clothing item or style originated. This work also provides an entry into further exploration of the diverse ethnic groups that continue to enrich the culture of the United States through the introduction and transformation of traditional clothing into Western fashion.
— Laura Kidd, Southern Illinois University Carbondale
Foreword by Joanne Eicher, Regents Professor Emerita, University of Minnesota
Each entry defines and describes the item, its origins and arrival in the United States, how it has been/is worn, and what it has represented over time.
Further Reading suggestions direct interested readers to additional information beyond the encyclopedia.
Contributions by experts in Museum Studies, Costume Design, Costume History, Anthropology, and more.
Employs a material culture approach to explore the ethnic-based core ideologies, myths, and cultural codes that have played a role in the formation of and continued story of the United States.
SAMPLE TOPICS:
Bandana
Chador
Dirndl
Harris Tweed
Kente Cloth
Moccasins
Obi
Rasta Hat
Tallit